Santiago Artemis Is the Rising Designer from World’s End
Santiago Artemis is so much more than an enfant terrible, and to portray him as such simply doesn’t do him justice. At just 25, the Argentine designer from Ushuaia, a city at the southernmost tip of the country, has already designed gowns for the likes of Katy Perry, Lana Del Rey, and Britney Spears. Le Grande Mensonge, the latest collection from his eponymous haute couture brand, shows an evolved viewpoint of his obsession with decadence: furs, bright colors, and shoulder pads galore….
US Says DJI Camera Drones Are Spying for China, DJI Calls Claim ‘Insane’
DJI camera drones are likely spying on the United States for China. At least, that’s what a newly uncovered US government memo claims. DJI has responded by calling the allegations “insane.”
Fast Company reports that the unclassified memo was issued back in August by the U.S. Immigration and Custom Enforcement (ICE) in Los Angeles.
In the memo, the ICE agent writes that he or she “assesses with moderate confidence that Chinese-based company DJI Science and Technology is providing U.S. critical infrastructure and law enforcement data to the Chinese government.”
The memo further “assesses with high confidence the company is selectively targeting government and privately owned entities within these sectors to expand its ability to collect and exploit sensitive U.S. data.”
The list of sensitive data being gathered by DJI is extensive, the agent claims:
The UAS operate on two Android smartphone applications called DJI GO and Sky Pixels that automatically tag GPS imagery and locations, register facial recognition data even when the system is off, and access users’ phone data. Additionally, the applications capture user identification, e-mail addresses, full names, phone numbers, images, videos, and computer credentials. Much of the information collected includes proprietary and sensitive critical infrastructure data, such as detailed imagery of power control panels, security measures for critical infrastructure sites, or materials used in bridge construction.
What’s more, the agent says the info collected could be used to launch an attack against the US, writing with “high confidence” that “the critical infrastructure and law enforcement entities using DJI systems are collecting sensitive intelligence that the Chinese government could use to conduct physical or cyber attacks against the United States and its population.”
These conclusions were made after the agent looked into “information derived from open source reporting and a reliable source within the unmanned aerial systems (UAS) industry with first and secondhand access.”
Here’s the full memo:
In an email to Fast Company, DJI spokesperson Adam Lisberg called the memo “utterly insane.” After the memo was published on the Internet, DJI also quickly published a statement on its website refuting the allegations and saying that the memo was “based on clearly false and misleading claims from an unidentified source.
“[T]he allegations in the bulletin are so profoundly wrong as a factual matter that ICE should consider withdrawing it.”
Many of the allegations in the ICE report are obviously false. The claims that DJI systems can register facial recognition data even while powered off, that Parrot and Yuneec have stopped manufacturing competitive products, and that DJI products have substantial price differentials between the U.S. and China can be easily disproven with a basic knowledge of technology and the drone industry, or even a simple internet search.
DJI has also asked ICE to look into whether the agent may have “had a competitive or improper motive to interfere with DJI’s legitimate business by making false allegations about DJI.”
DJI, based in Shenzhen, China, is a dominant force globally in the camera drone industry — DJI reportedly owns a 70%+ market share of all non-hobbyist drones in the US, according to a recent survey. But the company has been the subject of cybersecurity scrutiny as of late.
“DJI has built its reputation on developing the best products for consumer and professional drone users across a wide variety of fields, including those who fly sensitive missions and need strong data security,” DJI concludes in its statement. “We will continue working to provide our customers the security they require.”
Flikframe is a Nail-Free Restickable and Collapsible Picture Frame
Hanging framed pictures can be a real problem if you don’t want to put holes in your wall or have a landlord that doesn’t allow it. But there’s a new solution headed toward the market: Flikframe is the world’s first re-stickable and collapsible photo frame.
Flikframe is made of 100% recycled boxboard that is precision cut and coated with a water-repellent satin finish. This gives it a sleek look and 90-degree outer edges.
Instead of glass, the frames use an acrylic that has 92% light transmission (glass windows usually have 83-90%). This also means the frames are unlikely to shatter should they fall.
The frames are light, but also sturdy, and incredibly thin at just 6mm when flat packed and 25mm when fully assembled.
“It’s exciting to inject personality and colors into your home but traditional MDF picture frames are too heavy to hang without ruining your walls,” says Jolene Chang, founder of Flikframe. “We decided we had to come up with something new.”
The frames are attached to the wall using 4 re-stickable adhesive pads. Your picture is then secured in the frame using elastic straps, which is faster than sealing it in with metal pins like in a traditional frame.
Magnets inside the frame will hold it flush with the wall plate that is stuck onto the wall, providing a neat finish.
Flikframe also has a number of “jackets” that can change the appearance of the frame. They are made of pre-scored and printed paper, allowing you to customize your frame as you see fit.
Here’s a brief video overview of the project and product:
Flikframe is currently available on Kickstarter, where for a $17.50 contribution you’ll be signed up to receive two Flikframes if/when the project successfully funds and delivers in December 2017.
Want to see how RED makes its popular digital cameras that carry price tags of tens of thousands of dollars? The company released this 3-minute video that offers a behind-the-scenes look at its manufacturing and production facilities.
The Red Digital Cinema Camera Company is headquartered in Irvine, California, about an hour away from Hollywood, and the company does its manufacturing in Irvine as well.
Here are some still frames from the video showing the factory technicians crafting and assembling the high-end cameras.
France has named South African photographer and activist Zanele Muholi a Chevalier d’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres (Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters), an honor awarded to people in the arts who have contributed to culture in France and the world. Muholi, acclaimed for her portraits of South Africa’s LGBTQ community and her work to combat homophobic violence in her country, was given the honor by Christophe Farnaud, the French ambassador to South Africa, at a ceremony in Pretoria on November 21, according to Yancey Richardson Gallery, which represents her.
“Muholi’s work has raised the subject of LGBTQI rights in South Africa and internationally,” said Farnaud. “It shines a light where there is shadow, it creates a space where there was none.”
Muholi’s series “Faces and Phases” has been published as a book by Aperture and exhibited around the world. In 2002, she co-founded Forum for Empowerment of Women. In 2009, the murder of a lesbian in a township near Johannesburg inspired Muholio to start Inkanyiso, a media collective for black, queer “born frees” (the term for South Africans born after the end of apartheid). Members document their own history through writing, photography and video.
Muholi’s mentor, photographer David Goldblatt, attended the ceremony in Pretoria. He has previously been named a Chevalier and risen to rank of Commandeur. The Order of Arts and Letters was established in 1957 by the French Minister of Culture. Other artists named Chevaliers include photographers Olafur Eliasson and Pablo Bartholomew, writer Alice Munro, movie directors Ang Lee and Tim Burton, actors Cate Blanchette, Jude Law and George Clooney, composer Philip Glass and singer Shakira.
Thursday Tip: Get the Most from Your Shoots with Detailed Written Plans
To get the most out of every shoot, commercial and editorial photographer Christopher Malcolm says he prepares a detailed written plan for multiple set-ups. The document, which he calls a “pre-shoot,” helps him work as efficiently as possible on location and shoot all the variable he wants to capture.
He lists each of the shots he wants to make, the lighting set-up he wants, and some reference images to show the mood or look he wants. “For most shoots, I’ll tend to walk in with 30 to 40 pages of plans. It’s incredibly specific,” he says. For his personal project called “Warrior Academy,” he wanted to minimize time spent moving lights back and forth. His 100-page pre-shoot plan listed the order in which he would create each shot, and also the variations he would try with each lighting setup. With the document in hand, he says, “if something goes wrong, I have a plan B,” as well as a plan C and a plan D.
Prince’s Estate Has Opened an Online Pop-Up Shop
Stuck trying to figure out what to get your relatives this year? You’re in luck. The Prince Estate has opened up an online pop-up shop full of new official Prince merch just in time for the holidays (who in their right mind wouldn’t appreciate some great Prince gear?) The pop-up was inspired by the artist’s surprise Hit N Run album released in 2015 and features the estate’s first ever offering of authorized merch.
The range includes an array of t-shirts, outerwear, and caps emblazoned with …
The multiple exposure is one of the easiest, fastest and most flexible ways to create striking images. It is usually my go-to technique when I am struggling with creativity and I need a good shot fast or when the venue is less than ideal for creating amazing images.
So what are multiple exposures anyway? In technical terms, a multiple exposure is the superimposition of two or more exposures to create a single image. Originally done in film photography by exposing the same film negative multiple times to create an overlaid image, These days it can be done with digital cameras by exposing the camera’s digital sensor two or more times and then overlaying those images.
Overlaying multiple exposures is one of the oldest forms of “trick photography” and is responsible for many of histories “unexplainable” photographs.
Understanding Multiple Exposures
The way that multiple exposures work can be a bit tricky, so let me start off by explaining that white in an image represents exposed data. Once you expose part of your image to the max that part is exposed forever. You will not be able to bring it back or overlay anything over it because it is already exposed.
Black represents unexposed area. Which is perfect for overlaying the second exposure. Black parts of the image are still unexposed and so the second exposure will fill those parts with substance. This means ideally you want a black area on your first exposure to allow your second exposure to show through.
Everything in between is just different densities of black or white, so they will show through different amounts of the second exposure.
As far as I know, there are 3 ways to do a double exposure.
1. Using a multiple exposure setting on your camera to combine two or more consecutive shots into one.
2. Using a multiple exposure tool in the camera that allows you to combine two images that have already been taken.
3. A program like Photoshop.
95% of the time I am using option number 2, which I believe gives me the most flexibility. The other 5% of the time I will use number 1. Sometimes I will use a combination of Number 1 and Number 2 but I will explain that later. As for number 3, I’ve never combined exposures in Photoshop after that fact — not that I am against using Photoshop, but I just prefer to do it in-camera.
Setting up for consecutive multiple exposures on Nikon
Most Nikon Cameras will have a double exposure mode that can be found by navigating to your Camera Menu->Shooting Menu->Multiple Exposure and from there you can turn on multiple exposure mode, and select the number of shots you want to have combined. This is how you would do a traditional multiple exposure but like I said earlier, I only do this maybe 5% of the time. The majority of the time I am using Nikon’s combine multiple exposures tool.
(Note: I have my BKT button on my Nikon d5 mapped to double exposure mode so I can quickly set it up if I need too.)
Combining already taken multiple exposures in camera with Nikon
Navigate to the Retouch menu and then Image Overlay and from there you will be able to select two images that you have previously taken and combine them into one. You will be able to adjust the density of each image and then combine them. The output will be a RAW image of the two selected images but combined into one. In my opinion, this is the best way to do multiple exposures because it offers the most flexibility.
Setting up for Double Exposures on Canon
Most Canon cameras can be set up for double exposures by navigating to the camera menu and then navigating through the shooting tabs until you see a multiple exposure option that will allow you to enable multiple exposure mode. You will also be able to select how the exposures are combined, how many exposures you want the camera to combine and if you want the camera to shoot in multiple exposure mode continuously or for just one complete multi-exposure.
Combining multiple exposures in camera with Canon
Similar to Nikon there is a way to combine already taken images in camera, You can do this by going to menu, navigating to the same tab where the multiple exposure mode can be found and selecting “Select images for multi. Expo.” This should allow you to go through the images on your memory card and select the two (or more) images that you want to combine.
(Canon cameras have the ability to select different kinds of blending modes for the multiple exposures. I don’t know a ton about the different modes, but when I was shooting with canon cameras I would always use “additive” mode which I believe is the closest thing to what would be considered a traditional multiple exposure.)
The Thought Process
Multiple exposures can be a bit tricky to wrap your mind around when you first start doing them, there is a lot of stuff going on when multiple images get combined that it can be confusing trying to keep track of whats going on. For that reason, I like to keep things simple by breaking them into two parts. Part 1 being the “Canvas” and part 2 being the “Subject”.
The canvas is the background, foreground or any part of the image that doesn’t have a subject in it. This is for me the most interesting aspect of a double exposure and I will take the time to figure this out before I consider adding the subject to the frame. Usually, for canvases I’ll look for interesting lights, abstract designs, geometric shapes, cityscapes, fire, sparkly stuff and I’ve even been known to use pages from a magazine or paintings on walls to make interesting canvases. Here are some examples of canvases:
This is a stained glass lamp shade that I found while walking around the venue. Notice the black area on the left, That was actually made by placing a credit card behind the lampshade to flag a dark area because I knew I eventually wanted to put a subject in that area.
These are 3 lights that were above the bathroom mirror in the bridal suite. Ordinarily, they would be pretty boring but I saw them for their basic geometric shape and thought they looked kind of cool. I under-exposed my camera quite a bit to try and only get the basic shape and color from the lights.
This is a chandelier and I just I opened up the shutter speed to get a long exposure, then I moved the camera around and also zoomed in and out to get these cool abstract light trails.
Once you have decided on your canvas, you need to decide where to put your subject. When I am looking for good canvas shots, I am looking for good places to put my subject within the canvas. Remember that black represents no exposure, and so will show the second exposure. For that reason I intentionally look for dark areas within my canvas shot, knowing that it is going to be the place I put my subject.
If I can’t find a naturally dark area I will create one by putting an object in front of the lens to flag the area I want my subject to go. I’ve used my finger, a credit card, and other random objects to create a dark spot in the canvas frame so that I have a spot to place my couple.
I’ll do one of two things with the subject, turn them into a silhouette, or light them with a completely black background. Here are some examples of Subject photos.
This is just a silhouette taken against an empty white wall. I used the red gel from Magmod and had the groom hold my flash at his waist and point it directly at the wall behind him. Then I used my shutter speed to kill all the ambient light in the room and got this simple silhouette.
This is just a very simple silhouette made by placing a flash behind the subject and pointing it at the wall. Then I just increased my shutter speed to kill the ambient light and got this simple strong silhouette.
All I’ve done here is put the couple in a completely black frame. This can be achieved pretty much anywhere with a gridded flash, just kill the ambient exposure by increasing your shutter speed until your frame is completely black and then put a flash on the couple. The completely black parts are perfect for filling in with a cool canvas frame.
Complete Double Exposures
Here are a few of the techniques that I use to create interesting canvas shots, Obviously the sky is the limit on what you want to create but I usually stick to these.
1. White Balance Throw
This is when you use a different white balance with each exposure. For instance, I’ll crank up my white balance to 10,000k and photograph some interesting lights (like a chandelier, candles, or twinkle lights) as my canvas. This makes the lights super orange because I’m tricking the camera into adding orange to the image.
Then for the subject image, I’ll move my white balance to the correct white balance, this will make the subject correctly colored while the canvas image is still bright orange. You can do this the complete opposite also by setting your camera to something like 3200K and making the canvas image a strong blue color. If you are doing a silhouette you can set the white balance to 10,000K for the canvas and 3200K (or the opposite) for the subject and that will add a strong orange/blue color contrast to your image.
2. Long Exposures
This is one of my favorites, you can find interesting light sources and set the camera to do a long exposure. Then shake the camera around to get cool motion blur and or light trails for your canvas shot. Then just place your subject in as usual. You can also use a zoom lens and zoom in and out while taking the long exposure shot and it creates an interesting zoom in effect that I’ve done a few times before.
3. Multiple exposures
This is when I will use multiple exposures just to build my canvas. For example I will set my camera to shoot consecutive multiple exposures, then take an image of a chandelier, re-compose and take another image of the same chandelier, I sometimes will do this like 10 times which results in a canvas image that is build of about 10 exposures with 10 of the same chandelier in the shot but recomposed a bunch of times so it is just an abstract mess of chandeliers. Then I’ll just add my subject in as usual. This usually results in some pretty crazy/abstract shots, which can be pretty fun.
4. Mixing Focal lengths
Sometimes I’ll use a 200mm lens to compress lights, cityscapes, or anything else for the canvas. Then I’ll switch to a wider angle lens to capture my subject. By mixing focal lengths you gain control over how big or little your subject/canvas can be. For example, you can use a 200mm lens to make something small look huge and fill up the entire frame, then use a wider angle lens and step back to make your subject look small. Then put your tiny subject within the bigger canvas.
I try not to do multiple exposures all of the time because I feel like they are not always 100% true to life, not an accurate representation of what was really happening on the couple’s wedding day, and sometimes I feel like they are kind of gimmicky. That being said, however, the couples who hire me are doing so because they want amazing images and it is my responsibility to create them.
I will always strive to capture real moments, and real emotion before I fabricate something like a multiple exposure, but at the end of the day if the venue isn’t the most ideal place for amazing portraits, or if I am low on portraits for the day I know I can always put together a multiple exposure that will blow the couple’s couples mind and make me look good in the process.
So ultimately look at double exposures as just another tool in the tool-box, something you can break out whenever the occasion calls for it.
About the author: Carsten Schertzer is a wedding and engagement photographer based in Los Angeles, California. You can find more of his work on his website, Instagram, and Facebook. This article was also published here.
Reposting an Instagram photo you like currently involves uploading a new version to Instagram, an act that can put you on the wrong side of copyright law. Instagram may finally be getting ready to unveil a “regram” button that lets you safely share other people’s photos in your feed without making a copy of them.
TNW reports that Instagram is testing a new native “regram” button with a small set of Instagrammers.
A screenshot shared by TNW shows the new button alongside existing buttons when viewing an Instagram post.
Using the button to repost a photo will presumably share it through your feed while properly attributing the photographer, linking back to their account, and contributing to the original post’s social activity.
This type of feature, which exists on other social networks (e.g. Facebook Share and Twitter Retweet), can combat the problem of photos being reuploaded with neither permission nor credit.
There are a few other features currently being tested by Instagram as well. TNW reports that users may soon be able to search for and add GIFs to content, archive your Stories in a personal archive, share content privately with just a group of your closest friends, and share photos to WhatsApp.
No word yet on if or when these features will be rolled out to all Instagram users.
When a Copyright Infringement Search Tool Gets Its Copyright Infringed
My name is Leila Boujnane, and I’m the CEO of TinEye, a reverse image search tool many photographers use to find copyright infringements on the Internet. This post is about how not even copyright infringement search tools are immune to copyright infringement.
We recently came across an exciting new website called PicQuery. It has a really awesome and clean design, but it seems familiar… because it has everything that TinEye has! TinEye colors, TinEye copy, exact copy-and-pasted HTML from the TinEye website, and even TinEye’s terms of service!
Any decent high school student plagiarizing their homework will tell you there are TWO key steps to faking an assignment: steal, then modify. PicQuery did a great job on step one, not so much on step two. Let’s take a look!
Notice anything odd in this side-by-side comparison of some TinEye and PicQuery pages?
Striking resemblance wouldn’t you say? But it goes further than just stealing our design. This is what happens when you don’t carefully examine what you’re copy-pasting:
Either TinEye and PicQuery have the same parent company and nobody told us, or someone at PicQuery wasn’t very thorough with their find-and-replace. Ctrl+F can save you a lot of time, but it’s no substitute for proper proofreading.
On the other hand, PicQuery didn’t even bother to use find-and-replace to hide the fact that they copied TinEye’s code directly:
We get it—proofreading can be tricky—but when you just help yourself to another company’s CSS code, perhaps you should make sure it works with your logo? We can all agree that would be an easy win! Here’s what the PicQuery logo looks like when viewing their site on a “retina” display:
Oh, but it gets better! When PicQuery replaced our TinEye robot with their own logo, they didn’t change the code to point to their image; they just also named their image frontpage_robot.png! Really guys? Really?
PicQuery also did some “bespoke” copywriting after they set up our site (!) on their servers. Notice the way they distinguish themselves on the homepage:
PicQuery’s search is “ultimate fast.” How can we compete with that! Those shrewd marketers at PicQuery have won this round. And their “Made with 💛 in (the?) United Kingdom” is the icing on top of the proverbial cake!
What about the functionality of PicQuery, like showing image search results? Let’s see how PicQuery’s ability to “find similar images & where your image appears online” looks like:
Well, it looks like PicQuery simply built image search results pages with “borrowed” results from Microsoft Bing, shoehorned into our page designs! This is a winner! Bravo.
Dear PicQuery, we would use your contact form to get in touch and point out the obvious, but since you ripped that design too, perhaps it’ll just forward to our email address. Wouldn’t that be grand!
At TinEye, we love to hear about new search solutions and would never stand in the way of anyone trying to get an awesome solution off the ground—but we suggest that you go back to the drawing board and explore some new options. If you insist in keeping our design, here’s one small suggestion from one of our designers to get you going: change your header h1 a width to 200px and that will fix the logo on your homepage.
Good luck, PicQuery! May the wind always be at your back!
About the author: Leila Boujnane is the CEO of TinEye. The opinions expressed in this article are solely those of the author. You can connect with her on Twitter. This post was also published here.